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Woman treks from Newfoundland to Tuktoyaktuk in five-year Trans Canada walk

How long does it take to walk from Newfoundland to Tuktoyaktuk? As it turns out, five years SA国际影视传媒 give or take a global pandemic.
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Melanie Vogel and her best friend Malo stop for a breather at the Arctic Ocean sign at the cusp of a five-year journey across the Trans Canada Trail. The dynamic duo are off to Victoria to complete the final leg of their journey. Photo courtsey of Melanie Vogel
                                            Melanie Vogel and Milo make their way along the Dempster Highway. Photo courtesy of Melanie Vogel
Melanie Vogel and Malo make their way along the Dempster Highway. Photo courtesy of Melanie Vogel

How long does it take to walk from Newfoundland to Tuktoyaktuk? As it turns out, five years SA国际影视传媒 give or take a global pandemic.

Along the 28,000 kilometres of trail connecting CanadaSA国际影视传媒檚 three oceans, Melanie Vogel says the memory she will treasure the most are the friends sheSA国际影视传媒檚 made along the way SA国际影视传媒 particularly her four-legged travel buddy Malo.

The German-born adventurer has spent the last five years walking the Trans Canada Trail with the goal of seeing all three oceans surrounding Canada. She began June 2, 2017 at the Cape Spear, Nfld. lighthouse and has been making her way across Canada ever since, finally reaching the Arctic Ocean on May 5, 2022.

SA国际影视传媒淚 have a very strong longing for the road and have been traveling already for a long time,SA国际影视传媒 said Vogel. SA国际影视传媒淎fter returning back to Canada from a two year world trip in 2013 I couldnSA国际影视传媒檛 stop thinking to hit the road again. I read an article about the Trans-Canada-Trail which has grown to a 28,000 km network of more than 400 community trails that connect Canada across 10 provinces, three territories through wilderness, rural and urban landscapes.

SA国际影视传媒淲hile I consider this a solo hike it is powered by human kindness. Without it I might have long run out of energy as itSA国际影视传媒檚 such a huge undertaking to walk multiple years on a 28,000 km long trail.SA国际影视传媒

As one could imagine, walking across one of the largest nations on the planet has posed significant challenges. Vogel said the first thing she learned the hard way was how to camp in Canadian winter, which almost put a stop to her journey as -30 C nights set in.

Since then, sheSA国际影视传媒檚 traded her three-season tent in for a full complement of winter camping gear and has become quite skilled at being outdoors.

SA国际影视传媒淚 was worried when falling asleep in my tent I wouldnSA国际影视传媒檛 wake up,SA国际影视传媒 she noted, adding she almost did herself in crossing the Salmon River in Fundy National Park, N.B. SA国际影视传媒淭he river had swollen due to strong rainfalls the days prior and the water was freezing cold and waist deep and the crossing very risky. I shouldnSA国际影视传媒檛 have done it but I was stubborn. I contemplated while watching the river for about an hour to understand its flow and find a safe spot to cross.

SA国际影视传媒淚 was extremely cold reaching the other side but I made it safely.SA国际影视传媒

Another major challenge to her journey was the time alone on the road. Vogel said it would get draining constantly thinking her own thoughts, coupled with a haphazard nutrition and sleep patterns SA国际影视传媒 it wore her down. Over time, she developed a number of mantras to help ground herself and keep going.

                                            Malo the dog takes a rest with his human Melanie as the pair make their way down the Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk. Photo courtesy of Melanie Vogel
Malo the dog takes a rest with his human Melanie as the pair make their way down the Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk. Photo courtesy of Melanie Vogel

But the single greatest help on the road came in the way of a dog named Malo, whom she met on the trail in Manitoba in 2019. The homeless hound and her quickly became the best of friends and after spending a month in the area trying to connect Malo with her home, Vogel decided to take the pooch under her wings. The two have been inseparable ever since.

SA国际影视传媒淗e was clearly a runaway, a free spirit,SA国际影视传媒 she said. SA国际影视传媒淭o accommodate him took quite a lot of logistical and financial adjustment but I was willing to make it all work because, love wins.SA国际影视传媒

The longest 400 kilometres

Ironically, the longest part of the journey for Vogel was two years in Eagle Plains, which she reached during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic.

At the time, the NWT had among the most stringent Covid-19 policies in the country, only permitting essential workers to enter the territory. Unable to complete the final 400 kilometres to the Arctic coast, Vogel found herself stranded in Eagle Plains without a source of income and little idea how long she would be stationary.

                                            Melanie Vogel and Milo take a pause as the cross into the Northwest Territories after being held up in Eagle Plains for two years due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Photo courtesy of Melanie Vogel
Melanie Vogel and Malo take a pause as the cross into the Northwest Territories after being held up in Eagle Plains for two years due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Photo courtesy of Melanie Vogel

Fortunately, northern hospitality came through and helped carry her the rest of the rocky way to the shore. First, the Eagle Plains hotel offered her a job while she waited the pandemic out, and for eight months she served truckers moving goods across the invisible barrier. Then, her hopes were dashed as the NWT and Yukon first announced a travel bubble in June of 2021, which popped before she could get across the boarder.

Finally, when the NWT eased restrictions in early 2022, Vogel and Malo set out again with a borrowed wagon in April to reach the Arctic coast, but the journey continued to put obstacles in front of the determined pair. But kindness from people along the Dempster helped her along the way.

SA国际影视传媒淭he challenge was real,SA国际影视传媒 she said.SA国际影视传媒滻 ended my first day with a flat tire after a tiresome 28 km walk through the Richardson mountain range. I was exhausted and my whole body ached as I hadnSA国际影视传媒檛 walked with full gear for 1.5 years. I felt so grateful that Ben not only invited me to stay at his cabin at Midway but that he and his friends fixed my tire.

SA国际影视传媒淎nother blow of my tire left me stranded right before reaching the Mackenzie River. This time it was John that came to my rescue. We loaded all my gear in his pick up and I walked all the way to frog creek where I planned to stay for the night in a pullout. John drove ahead waiting for me there.

SA国际影视传媒淲hen John left me behind I realized I had just loaded all my belongings on the truck of a stranger who I know nothing about other than his first name and the colour of his truck. But this is what the journey is partly about to have faith and believe in the goodness of your fellow humans. As I handed him my gear so did others hand me their key to their home or cabin trusting that it will be alright that we treat this trust or kindness with respect.

SA国际影视传媒淚nstead of camping at frog creek I ended up at another JohnSA国际影视传媒檚 home in Tsiigehtchic. While I had to backtrack and walked the remaining 20 some km to the community the next day good people, which hikers like to call trail angels, fixed my tire once again.SA国际影视传媒

Time was not on VogelSA国际影视传媒檚 side, as she learned while crossing the Mackenzie that the road would soon be closed due to spring break-up. The pairSA国际影视传媒檚 journey hit another snag as they were confronted by an aggressive dog. In the process of bear-spraying the animal to protect herself and Malo, Vogel accidently sprayed herself.

Able to flag down a car driven by two women, Vogel recovered in Inuvik before returning to the spot she was stopped and continuing the journey, escorted by her new friends. As she continued on the highway, passerbys would pull over and offer her food and drinks to help her along.

When she finally made it to Tuktoyaktuk, she learned the ice roads were on 72-hours notice. With a blistering Arctic wind, she stayed for dinner with two new friends she met in town before hightailing it back to Inuvik and hitchhiking back to Eagle Plains, getting across the last crossing with less than 48-hours notice.

SA国际影视传媒淛oe and Diane had invited me to join their family for a dinner,SA国际影视传媒 she said. SA国际影视传媒淎s I stepped through the door, I looked at a well-laid table with traditional northern culinary which included snow goose, caribou meat and caribou head. The hospitality of these kind people made my short stay in Tuk a humbling and memorable experience.

SA国际影视传媒淚t might sound cheesy but my walk to the Arctic has already taught me that it truly is all about the journey and not the destination. So many times, I had day dreamt how reaching the Arctic would be. How I would dip my feet in the ocean, how I would sit to reflect, that I might even shed a tear. None of this happened. The ocean was still frozen, the wind blew harsh and ice cold which made staying beyond the obligatory photo op way too miserable, but touching the Trans Canada sign and kissing and telling my exhausted dog that we made it and can rest now for a bit was still a very emotional and joyful moment.SA国际影视传媒

The final Leg

Now back on the trail, Vogel is within sites of her final goal, reaching Victoria, B.C. to have completed the Trans Canada Trail by foot.

She noted five years on the road has changed her perspective on just about everything.

SA国际影视传媒淎s someone who has been born and raised in Germany, I am genuinely proud of myself how I coped and navigated through the Canadian wilderness and the Canadian winters over the past five years,SA国际影视传媒 said Vogel. SA国际影视传媒淚 have grown as a person physically, spiritually and mentally. I learnt to balance doing with just being as both are equally necessary. I am much more content and in tune with myself when I am out there as nature knows no judgment. A lot of things that matter in society donSA国际影视传媒檛 matter here which naturally caused a rethink of my values, beliefs and priorities.

SA国际影视传媒淔or example, there is no such thing like SA国际影视传媒榳asting timeSA国际影视传媒 in nature. And at times when I wonder where I belong it is nature where I feel always welcome. The trail has given me lots. Freedom, contentment, inspiration and love in form of a four-legged companion I named Malo. I have grown on the trail and have rehabilitated my connection with nature.

SA国际影视传媒淣ow that I have reached the Arctic Ocean, I am on my way to the third and last ocean. ThatSA国际影视传媒檚 about 3000 km left to go. This journey will be finished once the water of the Pacific Ocean washes over my feet. And then? I am definitely not putting my feet up. I converted an old chevy into a camper van during the pandemic which will be my home on wheels as I have no intention to settle.

SA国际影视传媒淢y life has been quite an adventure and I will keep it that way.SA国际影视传媒



About the Author: Eric Bowling

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